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Sunday Brunch at Le Meridien: Subdued Yet Satisfying

You may have noticed Bangkok has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to Sunday brunches. And that KohSpot likes to wallow in that pig pen of indulgence whenever possible. So when we noticed Le Meridien Bangkok was pimping a gelato-inspired Sunday fete, an examination was in order.

The Le Meridien on Surawong Road is something of a newcomer to Bangkok, opened about three years ago with an emphasis on art and design. Oh, French people, aren’t they adorable? Much of the public spaces are airy and chic, and its sole restaurant, Latest Recipe, is no exception, with impossibly high ceilings looking out toward front bay windows that would make Roald Dahl jealous with envy.

Le Meridien’s Sunday Brunch was sparsely attended when we visited, but that doesn’t mean it skimps on the food. It only costs 1,200++ at Le Meridien, which is a pittance compared to many other Bangkok hotels, and Latest Recipe seems to concentrate on unusual combinations rather than the same old jazz. Smoked chicken breast with guacamole and red pepper was a particular standout, as was a shot glass of carrot soup with pumpkin seeds topped off by soybean foam—tastes much better than it sounds.

No eggs benedict here, but a poached egg sandwich with smoked salmon is considered a house specialty. You can’t go for grand gestures at that price, but Le Meridien does take small gambles, which we appreciate. The Provencal-style fish cooked with olives, lemon and artichokes was a sour and salty winner, but gnocchi probably shouldn’t be left on a heat tray for a three-hour brunch. As with most Sunday brunches there are hits and misses at this brunch

Apparently Le Meridien has taken some heat because it doesn’t offer foie gras, which some Thai brunch mavens feel should be de rigueur. We venture to guess that most of the folks demanding Foie gras are motivated by it’s unwarranted status symbol breezing through Bangkok, rather than culinary and personal taste preferences. Good food is just that, and there’s no requirement of what has to be served, so just sit back and enjoy yourself. Everything is going to be OK.

There are a lot of old standbys as well, including meats, cheeses and breads, which are three of KohSpot’s four basic food groups along with champagne. Speaking of, alcohol is not included in the price, but you can wash it all down with Prosecco if need be.

Latest Recipe is apparently known for its desserts, which featured a German gugelhupf (somewhat like a bundt cake) and a chocolate dome cake as options. And of course Le Meridien’s big promotion: gelato inspired by pasta and breakfast dishes. We tried a pile of pesto pasta that was really green tea ice cream with white chocolate shavings and an egg cocotte dish that was really coconut ice cream with a peach as the egg yolk and the side of raspberry sauce masquerading as ketchup. Not bad, but the real stars of the show here are the entrees and savory choices.

Latest Recipe certainly has a relaxed atmosphere, even sleepy when so few people are there. We recommend it as a way to wind down from Saturday night revelry and one of the few Sunday brunches that won’t break the bank.

 

Le Meridien
Location: 40/5 Surawong Road, just past the Montien Hotel.
Mass transit: BTS Sala Daeng or MRT Silom
Hours: Sunday brunch noon to 3 pm
Phone: 02-232-8888
Website: www.starwoodhotels.com/lemeridien/property/overview/index.html?propertyID=1946

 

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