The Four Seasons has such a venerable reputation; KohSpot thought dining at Biscotti, its flagship Italian restaurant, would be a formal affair. But if anything, we left thinking despite the high level of cuisine, Biscotti is one of the more casual Italian venues in Bangkok and that isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
The kitchen is open, allowing patrons to see and smell the chefs at work. Windows look out onto the courtyard. And yes, we even heard a hip-hop song piped in during dinner. This is not your average Khunying’s hangout.
Chef Daniele regularly does the rounds to make sure everything is to your liking, as well as to dole out generous portions of truffles. The wait staff seem to know what you want before you even ask for it. Make no mistake—this is a well-oiled machine at work.
The menu changes regularly based on seasonal ingredients and the chef’s preferences, but most of the items are meant to be familiar options that would not be out of place at a trattoria. The chef is from Rome and is fond of risotto, so it should come as no surprise that the home-smoked lobster risotto with tomato, basil and vanilla bean (870 for a dinner portion) was one of the highlights we sampled. The rice was tender and the sauce was not so rich you had to have a glass of water with every bite.
Another favorite of diners is the cheese pizzeta topped off with black truffles. Though we often buy truffle shavings for our giks,we never deigned to sample the filthy fungi until recently. These truffles had a subtle earthiness with a long finish, and this dish is a delicious appetizer.
The 12-hour slow-cooked grain-fed beef cheek (970 baht) practically melted in your mouth, which is good those who are too lazy to cut their food (guilty), and the caramello spuma (260 baht) drew awes from our table when it was fuming like a witches brew. A deconstruction of tiramisu, the dish featured layered dolce di latte foam, almond crumbs, a cocoa cracker and a base of coffee granite, with the glass steaming from some liquid nitrogen perhaps.
Biscotti deserves its place among the handful of best Italian eateries in Bangkok, and the relaxed atmosphere suits us just fine.
Location: 155 Rajadamri Road, just south of the famed Rajaprasong intersection
Mass transit: BTS Rajadamri. A three-minute walk from the station.
Hours: 11:30 am-2:30 pm, 6 pm-10:30 pm daily
Phone: 02-126-8866 ext. 1231