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Beccofino: Italian Food That is Good Not Great

You know that neighborhood restaurant that you walk past every single day but have yet to visit?

We call these restaurants “passables” as their mediocrity  fails to entice and is thus so easy to pass by.For whatever reason Beccofino is the passable of all passables in Bangkok’s Thong Lor district.

Beccofino has a great location just a meter meters from Thong Lor soi 4, a comfortable and inviting interior and warm personality so why hasn’t Beccofino captured a loyal local following? It could be due to the one variable that plagues so many higher end Italian joints in the big Mango, Beccofino is good, but not great.

Chef Angelo Rottoli is a joy.

A classic Italian who greets each guest with a friendly handshake and personalized menu centered around customers particular cravings. After intently listening to our group’s culinary preferences Signor Rottoli offered up a tailored menu that had everyone at the table satisfied.

Highlights are as follows: the Yellow fin tuna tartar with tomatoes petals, lemon and mustard sauce (390) was fresh, zesty and palatable while the Risotto with saffron and Parmesan cheese (420) was the best Mac’N Cheese that we have had at an Italian restaurant (that includes Italy). We savored every bite. The other homerun was the Parma ham with rocket leaves pizza (380) although a bit too salty for some the pizza was an overall hit. Unfortunately, the Black fettuccini with Alaska crab and Pachino cherry tomatoes (420) was light on the crab and came atop pasta that was a bit tired.  The food is good, but not unforgettable and this is the reason that Beccofino is at only 30% capacity most evenings.  With over 323 Italian restaurants in Bangkok the pressure to stand out from the competition can be brutal.

Beccofino’s “good not great” status continued with a basic yet uninspired interior.  Black and white photos of the motherland, white table clothes and soft melodies present an atmosphere of understated quality, but once again there isn’t anything at this restaurant that will leave a long lasting impression on you.

Service was more frantic than accommodating. For example, we were unpleasantly surprised when the waiter removed our wine glasses from the table while still a quarter full of goodness. Beccofino didn’t get the message that one should never touch a Black man’s radio and one should never touch an alcoholics drink before its empty. Either of these actions would get you 10 years in a North Korean labor camp assuming that North Korea had alcohol, radios or black people (they don’t).

If you decide to go to Beccofino you won’t be disappointed. Just be sure to you keep your expectations moderate. One of our dining companions also thought the building was haunted.

Beccofino
Location: 146 Thong Lor Soi 4 Bangkok, Thailand
Mass transit: BTS Thong Lor
Hours: Lunch is from 11:30am-2:30pm and Dinner from 6pm-10:30pm
Phone: 02-392-1881-2
Web: www.beccofino.co.th

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