**This is part of KohSpot’s continued series on The Best Bangkok Street Food, you can read more here**
It’s been said if you don’t know where to eat in Bangkok, go to where its busy. Sawk Tuak Talat Sam Yan, a khao moo daeng joint on nondescript Chula soi 50, fits that bill.
Sawk Tuak Talat Sam Yan is considered by many to serve-up the best khao moo daeng in all of Bangkok, and wise sages such as noted foot critic and historian Suthon Sukphisit agree. Sawk Tuak’s name means alley between Sam Yan market, which is where it precisely was located before the old market was torn down in the name of Chulalongkorn University’s never-ending blood lust for revenue, likely another shopping venue.
The shophouse is still only a five minute walk from Sam Yan MRT station, and it draws such a lunchtime crowd of students, university staff and local office workers that you often have to wait for a table.
The khao moo daeng here is a mix of three types of the pork: the namesake salty and tender moo daeng, roasted and marinated in a red sauce; the crispy fried moo grawp; and the sweet khun chiang sausage. The plate of rice and pork is slathered in a homemade brown sauce that is tangy and sweet and really pulls the dish together, along with a boiled egg. Add pickled chilis and spring onion, and this is one unbeatable dish.
Nam Chowke runs the place every day from 8:30 am to 3 pm, or until he runs out of pork. His parents opened the restaurant 28 years ago and he had no intention of ever continuing in their footsteps. But fast-forward to today and Khun Nam couldn’t be happier running the shop, seeing repeat customers everyday and knowing his family’s khao moo daeng recipe sits as the Bangkok gold-standard for taste.
A piset, or large, plate costs 40 baht. Its not uncommon to eat two in one sitting, particularly if you have a foreign appetite. You’ll be kicking yourself if you miss this place and you’re in the area, and it makes a great lunch stop if you’re forced to spend time at the one-stop immigration center in Chamchuri Square.
Everyone in Bangkok has a street food spot they love. One of the joys of living in Bangkok is finding amazing Bangkok street food while avoiding the unsanitary vendors that will leave you tied to the toilet for a couple days. Drop us a note in the comment section on your favorite Bangkok street-vendor.
Sawk Tuak Talat Sam Yan
Address: 264 Chula Soi 50
MRT Sam Yan. From the Chamchuri Square station, cross Phayathai Road and turn right at the first soi, Soi 50 is the first soi on your left.
Hours: 8:30 am-3 pm daily